Thursday, July 28, 2005

Day 48 (24 July): More Transport in India

I took an early flight today from Calcutta to Dehli, where I hopped in a cab to the train station, waited about 2 hours and then got on a train stopping in Agra where I would spend the night.

Of the quick glimpse I had of Delhi’s streets I was very impressed as the 40 minute ride from the airport to the train station didn’t involved crossing a single pothole and I saw very little poverty and relative cleanliness.

Arriving in Agra, I checked into a hotel and then headed out to a couple of sights with a rickshaw driver who agreed to drive me around for two full days for less than 5 USD. This afternoon we went to the east bank of the river in Agra and saw the Itamid-ud-Daulah tomb which is a Mughli tomb that predates the Taj Mahal, which we view from the east side of the river, watching the sun set over it. Since I had a good conversation with him then, he took me to his ‘aunts’ house in a little village on the east side of the river for some tea and broken English conversation with her.

Observations:
1) Trains in India. Having been in India for 10 days its rather unusual that this was my first train trip since its how most people get around. (I got a good deal, however, with unlimited flights for 15 days for 620 USD which explains why I have been flying; that and the long time-consuming distances involved.)
2) 1st class. I was in a first class car on the train which was nice and had air-conditioning that mattered little when getting out in Agra where it was very humid and over 100 degrees. The 1st class car also had a family of mice in it running around something you usual don’t expect when your traveling in supposed style.
3) Train stations in India. These aren’t places that you particularly want to hang out. In Delhi, the deck of the train station was filled with people who were lying down or sleeping or half-dead with flies buzzing all over them. Because I had a first class ticket, I could wait in the 1st class lounge which didn’t have nearly enough seating.
4) Train booking efficiency. Its impressive to me that I booked my train ticket in another city and that when I arrive at the train station in Delhi there is a piece of paper posted to the outside of my train with my seat assignment on it.
5) Taxi scam number 1. The taxi meters in most cities in India, the taxi meters count up, but don’t actually count the cost because of inflation. The taxi drivers are supposed to use a table to match the old values and the new values of fares. In Calcutta this morning the cabbie tried to manipulate the chart in addition to charging me for getting lost. I didn’t take it and paid him less and left.
6) Taxi scam number 2. At the Delhi airport there are prepaid taxis to specific destinations. I paid the amount at the Delhi airport counter and the guy was trying to charge me on top of that an extra luggage fee which I had already paid at the counter. These taxi drivers are relentless on demanding extra money. In generally you have to negotiate a fare before getting in, but invariably at the end they will demand more than you agreed to.
7) People in Delhi, in general, seem a lot more aggressive and pushy than elsewhere in India for my brief stay there.
8) Sanitation in Agra. There were more flies buzzing around people, food, and everything else in this city than elsewhere in India which is saying a lot, since flies are everywhere.
9) I think I’m finally getting used to the general dirtiness of the country and how pushy people are with me, which is starting to allow me to enjoy it more.

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